A Rally for Lamar Valley

We visited Yellowstone NP last summer and chose to stay in West Yellowstone, right outside the West Entrance. It’s the most-used access point into the park, and for good reason— it puts visitors closest to geyser country, which includes superstars Old Faithful and Grand Prismatic Spring. We loved our time there and staying in the town of West Yellowstone so much that it was hard to skip it this year. We knew we wanted to return to the park, but I made the case for the North Entrance. During our 2024 visit, we only saw two lonely bison our entire time there, and really just their rumps. From far away. Lame. I had wanted to check out the Lamar Valley, but we had a sick pup and couldn’t afford the drive time. Lamar Valley, known as the “Serengeti of North America,” is the best place to see wildlife in Yellowstone, and wildlife sightings always top our Wish List. Can’t get enough. My expectations were high, as were the stakes— I had talked Colan into it after all, and it cost us a stay in one of our favorite little tourist towns. I’m happy to report that it was worth the gamble, and we’re in love with Lamar.

Lamar Valley is in the park’s northeastern quadrant, and the North Entrance in Gardiner, Montana, offers the quickest route there. Incidentally, it’s also the only entrance to the park that is open year-round. We stayed a short walk from the iconic Roosevelt Arch and all the darling town of Gardiner has to offer. Live music every night, our favorite! During early mornings, groups of elk (yay for calving season!) would be foraging, so tame one might foolishly try to collar a couple and bring them home as family pets. (Thank goodness for the small confines of a fifth wheel, or that foolish person could have been me.)

We did some hikes while there and also explored Mammoth Hot Springs. Both were nice, but not what would make us return. What will make us return, as often as we can, is the wildlife. My gamble paid off! Firstly, roughly 5,000 wild bison call Yellowstone home. They are the largest free-roaming, genetically pure herd in the United States. And I think we saw every last one of them! I wish you could have experienced it with us— too many baby bison, called “cinnamons” (squeal), to count. All attached like little barnacles to their hulking moms. Persistent low grumbles (sounding similar to those of our dually diesel, Pearly-Girl) emanated from protective dads. Herds that seemed to stretch out for miles, running and kicking up dust along the meandering rivers of the vast open grasslands. So many walked right past our truck, sometimes directly towards us, while we were tucked safely inside (if I’m being honest, I was half-out the sunroof sometimes.) It was magnificent. It was impossible to experience without awe, and it made us feel deeply connected to what came before us.

As if that wasn’t spectacular enough, Lamar Valley is one of the best places in the world to see wild wolves in their natural habitat. And we saw them! I had been trying to steel myself for the possibility of a letdown, nothings guaranteed after all, but we hauled ourselves out of bed at an obscenely early hour and headed to the park for sunrise on our last day. The animals, particularly the wolves, are most active around sunrise, and especially because the days were so hot. We got to experience the magic of the valley with its bison again, this time through early morning light. It was indescribable, the valley painted in a way that made it seem like our first time there. 

And then the wolves. The wolves! I don’t know what I was expecting, having not seen wolves in the wild before (schwew?), but was surprised that the ones we saw were jet black. We knew when we saw a crowd with scopes that we should pull over. At that first stop, we were able to make out two wolves and a bloody carcass! I’m grateful we weren’t there to witness the kill— I probably would have flipped out and made Colan drive us out of there, cycle-of-life be damned— but it felt like an honor to see what we saw. Later, we saw another handful making their way along the river—just pure magic.

We left North Yellowstone with experiences that’ll stay with us forever. It’s telling that the bears, pronghorn, and the adorable grouse family we had to stop for (how I don’t have that last clumsy, tag-along chick as a pet is a testament to my self-control) didn’t even make honorable mention. If you haven’t experienced Yellowstone’s roads-less-travelled, you should. Lamar Valley has our hearts, bet it’ll capture yours too.

Hope to see you out there! —CL

Cristy Lee McGeehan

Cristy Lee McGeehan, co-founder and Chief Creative Officer of House of Highways, is a renowned figure in the hosting and hospitality industry, bringing her creative vision and expertise to the RV and nomadic travel space. Her work, highlighted in The Wall Street Journal, Magnolia Network, HGTV, and many others, centers on crafting rich, community-driven travel experiences and resources for modern nomads through technology and media. Through House of Highways, she inspires a vibrant, adventurous approach to life on the open road.